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Taberna's 18th is the most dramatic hole on the course.
One of the first golf communities I visited back when I started this service in 2007 was Taberna, outside the historic city of New Bern, NC. I was struck by how orderly and neat the community was and not surprised to learn that it was favored by retired and active military personnel from nearby bases. It seems fitting on Memorial Day to reprint that review.
During a visit last November, the small city of New Bern, NC, appeared to be insulated from real estate woes. Construction cranes dotted the downtown historic area, adjacent to one of the city's two rivers. A new golfing community, Carolina Colours, had just opened outside of town and begun its advertising campaign, and the area's original golf community, Taberna, had only a few for sale signs dotting the front lawns of its tidy homes. Given its proximity to water and reasonably priced golf and real estate, New Bern's property owners do not appear to have too much to worry about in terms of valuations (barring an out and out collapse)..
Taberna, which opened in 1998, won't attract investment banker types looking to show off, but for those interested in a true neighborhood environment with an enjoyable golf course, it fills the bill. It is hard to find a house with a pricetag north of $600,000; Taberna has more than a fair share of condos and patio homes, which tamps down the price of the higher end homes. Small “patio” homes dominate the community in two large neighborhoods.
Taberna's original developer, the giant paper company Weyerhauser, must have studied the Levittown (Long Island) game plan because the houses are the same size, on identical lots and the same distance from the streets. Little attempt was made to create cul de sacs in which the houses could at least be set at more visually pleasing angles. The mostly brick exteriors do give a neat overall appearance to parts of the community.
With military bases within an hour, including Camp Lajeune,Taberna's residents include a number of former servicemen, and discipline and neatness have carried over to the community's lawns and houses. Pride of place extends to the golf course where, during a convivial round with three sextagenarian residents, I was amazed at how often they picked up broken tees and cigarette butts and deposited them into containers they carried on their carts. New club owners Gretchen and Fred Leonard appear to have a disciplined approach to fixing some nagging issues they inherited from the previous owners, and they are earning high praise from their patient and supportive members.
The course, which will not win awards for dramatic routing, nevertheless is a pleasure to play, and we understood the positive feelings toward it of our three new friends. The Jim Lipe design -- he was trained in the Jack Nicklaus stable -- saves much of the drama for its finishing holes on both nines, the only time you see water all day. The finisher, at 400 yards from the men’s tees (427 from the back), forces a well-placed drive down the left side of the fairway, where two strategically placed bunkers await overcooked draws. That is still a safer bet than shaving distance down the right, where the lake is close. An approach shot must not be greedy when the pin is at right because the lake extends to greenside there. Traps at left front and right rear make placement even more precise.
At the tips, the course plays to 6,900 yards, with a few par 4s weighing in at 425 yards or more. Greens were not huge, but they were quite fast with subtle contours. They are big enough that different pin positions will provide a wide variety of approach options. Although it rained the prior few days and carts were relegated to cart paths only, the fairways were not at all sloshy and the greens had been closely cropped.
For those who might feel too cramped in Taberna, real estate in the city of New Bern beckons. Taberna Golf Club welcomes members from outside the community, and nice, historic properties on or near the river start around $400,000. Initiation fees for full golf are just $8,500 for a family, $5,500 for an individual. Monthly dues are $220 and $173, respectively. The club offers social memberships (no golf) at less than half the full initiation for golf and offers corporate memberships that range from $8,500 for one player up to $17,000 for four. Dining minimums are just $60 per quarter, the equivalent of one meal for a couple.
For club information, contact Gretchen Leonard at (252) 634-1600 or firstname.lastname@example.org. For real estate information for Taberna and the New Bern area, contact Coldwell Banker Broker Connie Sithens at (800) 334-0792, or email@example.com.
A FEW TASTY NOTES ABOUT NEW BERN
I have eaten at New Bern's Chelsea Restaurant twice in a span of six years, and it was terrific both times. On a November visit to the downtown location, the restaurant's “famous” cream of crab soup did not over-promise, and the “Southern osso buco” ($19.95), a humongous shank of pork braised in an intense reduction of wine, olive oil, roasted tomatoes and capers, was meltingly soft and irresistible, leaving us no room for any of the attractive desserts. Other specialties on the menu include the “Combination Plates,” which offer a filet mignon, New York Strip or 16-ounce rib-eye in combination with grilled shrimp, bacon-wrapped scallops or a large crab cake. The latter combo, at $29.95, was the second most expensive entrée on the menu, beaten only by the Chelsea Filet Oscar, which featured tenderloin, jumbo lump crabmeat and tempura-fried asparagus at $32. Next time, perhaps…
The two-level Chelsea, at the corner of Broad and Middle Streets, is an anchor in New Bern’s historic downtown district, a few blocks from the Trent River and the site of the pharmacy where Caleb Bradham invented Pepsi Cola. New Bern has a population of just over 25,000 and wears the official distinction as an “All America City”; there is little we saw to dispute that label, except for an impending traffic problem that may result from rapid population growth and the basic geography of the area.
The Trent and Neuse Rivers bracket New Bern and provide great opportunities for recreational boating, fishing and water skiing, but they make egress possible only driving west; therefore, a visit to the beach requires a two-hour roundtrip commitment. Golf is available at seven area courses, which is plenty for now in a town of just 50,000. Two of them are private; the Taberna Golf Club (see above) and the par 70 New Bern Country Club course, a Donald Ross layout built in 1921 which we did not have the opportunity to play.
New Bern is an historic city, and the beautiful Tryon Palace, which served as the British capitol before the town’s founding in 1710, is a popular tourist destination. Recognizing what they have, many property owners in New Bern have restored their old homes, some dating to the 18th Century. Recently, we noted that a beautiful house in the historic district was listed at $745,000. It featured 4 bedrooms, 4 1/2 baths and nice views of the Neuse River. Contact Connie Sithens at firstname.lastname@example.org if interested in this or any other home in the New Bern area.
Marsh grass, live oaks and sand give Haig Point's layout a strong links feel. Wind and views of the Calibogue Sound only add to the effect.
If you have a bit of the Garbo in you, Haig Point on Daufuskie Island, SC, may float your boat. Isolated and reached only by an hourly ferry from Hilton Head Island across the Calibogue Sound, the small community offers upscale leisure living and one of the best golf courses we've played in the last year, a 27+ hole Rees Jones layout that winds through live oaks and marsh and eventually along the Calibogue. Why 27+ holes? Jones was so smitten with the terrain he just couldn't help routing two holes in two different ways.
Only 100 families live full time in Haig Point, but residents never feel alone. They are a tightknit group, both because they have to be and, it seems, want to be. We were greeted warmly when we met some of them for drinks on a Friday night in November in the community's "mansion," and later the clubhouse dining room was filled with chatty members who bellied up to the piano and belted out a few songs after dinner.
The mansion, which includes a few guest rooms for those visiting friends or looking at property, had been relocated by boat in the 1980s from somewhere in Georgia and reconstructed at Haig Point, just west of the ruins of the former slave quarters. The slave homes' tabby material was made from a mix of oyster shells and a kind of concrete, and it was a little eerie to see the contrast of modern and 18th Century, of luxe and servitude, side by side. The original developers of Haig Point, International Paper, left the ruins in place as one reminder that Daufuskie had a sobering history before it gave way to mostly leisure living. Another such reminder is the Mary Field School, where author Pat Conroy taught Gullah children in the 1960s (Jon Voight had the starring role in the 1970s film of Conroy's island experience). The school is still in use although the Gullahs, for the most part, are gone.
Real estate prices in Haig Point are almost too good to be true, with cottages and single family homes nestled in the live oaks going for hundreds of thousands of dollars less than comparably scaled homes on the mainland, and with $65,000 club membership fees thrown in for good measure on most sales. But you know that when things seem too good to be true, there is usually a catch or two; at Haig Point, there are a couple of catches. One is that carrying costs are high, with club dues running more than $10,000 a year. And if your fellow members decide they want to rehab the clubhouse or beach club, you will share in the potentially steep assessment. After all, on an island where virtually everything is shipped in, including labor, prices are much higher than on the mainland (Note: If you buy a piece of property at Haig and elect to build a house, your construction costs could reach as high as $500 a square foot, compared with around $200 on Hilton Head).
And then there is the most obvious "catch" of all, Daufuskie Island's isolation, a half hour boat ride from the mainland, and if you need provisions or just want to get away, there is only one way in and one way out. That said, those who have chosen Haig Point love it and speak of their community as an oasis of calm. They are a hardy and upbeat group, an engaging mix of former captains of industry, a few architects, real estate people and consultants who can work via satellite from the island, with the occasional flight from Savannah to meet with clients. Those clients should hold out for meetings occasionally at Haig Point. It's a wonderful, soothing and friendly place, and for its residents, half the fun is getting there.
We spent two days at Haig Point and also played the nearby Melrose Club at the Daufuskie Island Resort (we'll comment on Melrose and its fine Jack Nicklaus course at a later time). In a later post, we'll also discuss our visit to Bald Head Island, site of the only other "true" island golf community off the east coast.
During a research trip to Wilmington, NC earlier this month, I stayed in a warm and inviting bed and breakfast inn, The Taylor House. Located in the city’s historic district, Taylor House is about a 10-minute walk to the gas lit Front Street and some of the city’s best restaurants and shops. As I pulled up to the house at sundown, I could not help but notice the for-sale sign out front.
After about a dozen years, proprietors Scott and Karen Clark have decided to “move on,” in Scott’s words. But they aren’t moving away, content to continue to raise their 13-year old daughter in a town they have come to love after domiciles in New York City, upstate New York and the west coast. The Victorian was built in 1905 and features six bedrooms, a full bath in each one. A dramatic wooden staircase, stained glass windows, original tile are just a few of the house’s architectural details. The Clarks have accessorized nicely, especially with the early-20th Century table lamps that are attractive beacons in the windows at night.
My two-night stay at the inn was everything the promoters of bed and breakfast places say it should be – warm, friendly, personal, comfortable and relaxing. All the rooms at Taylor House have cute names. I stayed in the one at the back of the house, Serenity, the smallest of them all but plenty for me. Its two windows each looked out on a garden. The bed was comfortable and fit for a queen, both in terms of its size and the style of its headboard, which would have made Queen Victoria feel at home. The gas fireplace on the cold nights I stayed came in handy; the rush of gas provided quick warmth to the room, although Scott was right to warn me to be careful not to singe my eyebrows when I lit the thing. The only picky little criticism I have is that the shower was too small, maneuverability affected by a faucet handle that protruded from the wall. I kept bumping into it, sending a burst of ice cold water my way (at least I didn’t push it in the direction of scalding hot).
Breakfast was a hoot, especially the second morning. At my first breakfast, which included a soothing plate of scrambled eggs and cheese, fruit and a muffin, Scott leaned against the antique sideboard as he filled me in on local history, the specifics of the house and his take on the local restaurants. He warned me that a honeymoon couple would be arriving that evening. The next morning I sat down with the happy couple, both well into their 70s. I think the proud groom had practiced his line when he smiled at me and said, “I hope we didn’t keep you up last night.” His wife, way past the blushing stage, laughed contentedly at the joke. I was all too happy to be the butt of it, and resisted the temptation to ask if they stayed in the Joy or Love room.
The house is on the market for $795,000 and does seem most suited to a B&B business (unless you need four mothers in law suites!).. Rates at Taylor House begin at $125 a night, breakfast included, but discounts are available. My initial email was greeted with a quick response and the offer of a rate of $90. The inn’s web site is www.TaylorHouseBB.com. I’ll post some comments in the coming weeks about the golf communities in the area, as well as some notes on the two restaurants I sampled for dinner.