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St. Andrews city views are everpresent from the New Course.


    I came to Scotland with my son Tim with all but one day of our weeklong visit pre-booked for golf.  I left one day open on the chance that we might get lucky and be picked from all the many ballots submitted for a round at the Old Course Saturday (today).  Yesterday, we filled out the form at the caddie station by the 2 p.m. deadline, handed it in and then trotted off to play the St. Andrews New Course, which at 122 years is not exactly new - just not as old as the Old Course.  St. Andrews Links pulls the ballots after 2 p.m. and announces the results at 4 p.m.
    After our round on the New, we stopped in the clubhouse and, after a nail biting search by the lady behind the counter, we found our names down for a two-ball - we will likely be joined by two walk-ons - at 2:10 p.m. today. I

I hope I can keep it together on the first tee at the Old Course today.

have dreamed of a round on the Old Course since I started playing as a teen, and never mind if it may not be the best course in the world, or even in St. Andrews (I'll publish my comparison of the Old and the New here soon).  Just watching a few foursomes tee off today on #1, with the wide expanse of fairway ahead and the old hotel behind, gave me the chills (so did the brisk Scottish wind). I hope I can keep it together on the first tee.
    We started our golf in the Kingdom at the Crail Balcomie Links, just two miles from the wonderful two-bedroom cottage where we are staying in the tiny fishing village of Crail.  Balcomie is one of the oldest courses in the world, a true links with knockout views of the sea from the links land above. My son Tim, the golf architect aficionado, will follow in the coming days with a review of Crail Balcomie Links (Note:  If he seems less than enthusiastic about the challenge, it is only because he shot a sterling 70 with a chip in for eagle).  
    The Crail Library has the only Internet connection in town, and it is open for limited hours only three days a week.  I had to sign up for a local library card to log on, but the Internet connection was spotty and slow when it standrewsgorse.jpgworked.  I am sending this article to the web site from a coffee shop in St. Andrews (you cannot find a cup of real coffee in Crail - just instant - although the folks at the Golf Hotel in town did not charge me for the cup early this morning).  
    Crail, though rustic, is perfectly situated for a golf week.  To the north, just 10 minutes away, are the links at Kingsbarn and the Fairmont Hotel (18 by Bruce Devlin, 18 by Sam Torrance).  On the approach to St. Andrews, just eight miles from Crail, is the new and widely celebrated St. Andrews Castle Course, designed by the Scottish wunderkind David McLay Kidd, and then of course all the renowned courses of St. Andrews are a few miles beyond.  To the south of Crail are such unheralded gems - not unheralded by those who play a lot of Scottish golf - at Lundin Links and Elie, which are on our list for Sunday and Monday.  Tuesday we are set to play Scottscraig, one of the 10 oldest courses in the world, just north of St. Andrews, before winding up our week with another go at Balcomie.
    Although I am gaga about being in Scotland for a week of golf, my son has really hit the lottery.  His aunt in London has arranged a belated birthday present for him, a round of golf at the famed Royal Sunningdale outside the city, after we arrive there at the end of the week.  Lucky kid; he gets a week of golf in Scotland, including a round at the Old Course, at an age 42 years earlier than his father's first sojourn to the Old Sod.  I sure hope he can wangle me an invite at Sunningdale.  What was it the poet Wordsworth wrote?  "Child is father to the man."
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Face of the New Course:  The sod bunkers protecting the 8th green at the New Course appear almost to be smiling.  You won't be should you find one of them.
 

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The surviving ruins of Holyrood Abbey date to the 12th Century.  The Abbey is adjacent to Holyrood Palace, where Mary Queen of Scots lived before her imprisonment in England, and where the current Queen Elizabeth stays when in Edinburgh.

    Our family trip to Edinburgh wound up tonight with a nice meal at a family run Italian bistro two blocks away.  The service was efficient, if a bit perfunctory, but the food was generally consistent (the main courses outstripping the appetizers and desserts).  We spent most of today at the Edinburgh Zoo, which looked as if it were going to be a disaster from the start.  In the first six exhibits we visited, the animals were hiding and the California sea lion had been shipped back to California.  This looked like it was going to be the biggest waste of $90 ever.  But my zookeeper wannabe 16 year old daughter encouraged optimism, which paid off later with a few decent peaks at large mammals, some colorful birds and a hilarious 100-yard long parade of penguins outside their enclosure.
    Here is the skinny on Edinburgh.  Concerning the restaurants, we had neither a bad meal nor a great one.  Individual dishes stopped just short of memorable - the pasta with king prawns tonight were quite good - but some of the little bites on the "sample platter" at one of the local pubs the other day fell short of decent (strange tasting chicken wings, mealy sausages).  The Guiness on tap made up for it.  For me, the most memorable bites of the four days were the two scones at Clarinda's Tea Room just a block from the Scottish Parliament building.  Brown and rock hard on the outside, a combo of flaky and crumbly inside, they were perfect (embellished beautifully by raspberry preserves and clotted cream - essentially whipped cream, but better).  On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd give the food in Edinburgh a wobbly 7.
    Our accommodations have been as good as we could have asked for.  Not exactly in the middle of the old City Centre, still we are close to the Edinburgh Castle, close to city transportation and close to grocery shopping and breakfast places (the bakery a block away makes a nice scone, if not the stuff that legends are made of, as at Clarinda's).  The Knight Residence is an apartment hotel on Lauriston St., and our two-bedroom apartment has been perfect for the four of us (two adults and two teens).  Although the wireless Internet connection seemed to shut off around 11 each night, my hard wire connection worked on command all night.  The three concierges on call during our stay - Charlie, Chris and Hugh - could not have been more helpful with advice and some hands-on help with the cable TV, which was mesmerizingly complicated (three different remotes and an info box on the screen that wouldn't budge).  Chris saved the day with a bit of old fashioned technology; he unplugged and then re-plugged the cable.  On my ersatz scale, The Knight Residence gets a solid 8 that would be a 9 if it were not for the strip bars - with discreet signage - down on the corner.  Right now, our kitchen has an unobstructed view up to the Castle, but alas next year, no more view when the office building across the street is completed.
    The city is wonderful, with a stunning display of history, topography (hills formed by volcanic activity millennia ago), and architecture.  Many buildings pre-date American independence and, indeed, a few before Columbus even discovered America.  Although enterprising Scots have turned tradition into moneymaking opportunities with fairly expensive tours, there are more than enough chances for the visitor to see things the way they were centuries ago (and without paying for the privilege).  Despite the odious monetary exchange rate, we found the 31 pounds charge for tour bus trips around the city to be a good deal.  You can use any bus of four lines that cover virtually every part of the city for 24 hours, getting on and off whenever you want. (One catch:  The 24 hours is a little misleading since the buses run only from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.)
    We could have used two more days to see the city fully, but not much more than that.  Edinburgh is not a large metropolis, and I judge a tourist friendly city by how easily you can learn the local map.  Edinburgh's main streets essentially run parallel, east and west, and the Castle is at the heart of it all.  You can use it as a kind of navigational beacon wherever you are.  As cities go, this is an easy one to traverse, with splendid public bus service (we took one home from the zoo), as well as the aforementioned private bus lines.  The people of the city are respectful and friendly, but straightforward, with a wit and humor that can bump up pretty close to biting.  At the train station this afternoon, I asked a young man at the information booth how best to get my wife and daughter's luggage onto the train to London tomorrow morning.  I said they had a few big bags, to which he said, "Aye, you Americans do travel that way."  
    For the most part, you know where you stand in Edinburgh.

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Every day at 1 p.m., the most extroverted penguins at the Edinburgh Zoo line up to take part in a parade outside their enclosure.