I have stopped being jealous of folks with beachfront property I can't afford.  I am starting to feel sorry for them.  
    We reported here that the 18th green at Wild Dunes' Ocean Course, which we played just this last August, is gone, washed away by the tides, and that the homes adjacent to the 18th fairway and green may be next.  This is not an isolated incident.  Up and down the east coast of the U.S., from Cape Cod to Florida, some homes are falling into the sea and many others are threatened.  Wild Dunes is a microcosm of the issues that face these oceanfront homeowners and their fellow taxpayers, and it should be a cautionary tale for those whose dreams of a future home on the oceanfront could turn into a nightmare.
    In a nutshell, the debate on what to do about the situation is the same in Martha's Vineyard as it is at Wild Dunes.  People faced with losing their homes believe that the beach is a public resource, and that their governments and fellow taxpayers should help bear the burden to save the pubic resource.  Those who don't use the beach or are simply content to let Neptune do his work are not willing to help out.  They claim, and with some justification, that those who built homes where protective dunes once stood knew they were courting disaster eventually.  It is now eventually.100_5243wilddunes18thfwysandbags.jpg
    The lines were drawn pretty sharply in a group of letters to the editor a week ago in the Charleston (SC) Post & Courier, the major local paper which had come out earlier in October for removal of the sand bags holding back the sea.  Earlier attempts had resulted in shredding of the bags, which were then carried out to sea and, in the Post & Courier's opinion, created "a hazard for marine life as well as an oceangoing litter problem for the state's entire coast."  The Wild Dunes owners believe the sand bags are the only way to hold back the sea in combination with sand they want trucked in from farther north, as well as sand from a spit just south of Wild Dunes (bringing in local sand isn't going to happen, according to local officials).  The situation is a mess, both literally and figuratively, and it is fraying nerves; and although those of us at a distance may feel sorry for those facing the loss of their homes, some of their fellow citizens are talking like it is Judgment Day.
    "...everyone has been forewarned about building too close to the shore," wrote one local citizen who argued for letting the homes fall into the sea. "Wild Dunes residents have chosen to ignore these warnings for decades,"
    "We need to stop writing new flood insurance policies on undeveloped land," wrote another. "If an owner wants to develop, then let him self-insure...Once a structure is destroyed, the flood insurance should pay and the land abandoned, never to be developed again."
    A Wild Dunes owner, fearful of what will happen to the resort's private oceanfront club and the entire island's economy, wrote, "Unfortunately and inexplicably, it seems that some local critics would be happy to have our buildings and golf course fall into the ocean. For those of us who live and golf along the ocean, and for our supporters in the Charleston area, that attitude is a shortsighted view relative to the long-term viability of the Isle of Palms."
    We won't predict the outcome on Isle of Palms, but those Blue Ridge Mountains in the Carolinas are looking more attractive than ever.

hummingbirdinnexterior.jpg

The Hummingbird Inn may seem as if it is in the middle of nowhere, but some excellent golf is within 40 minutes.

  

    A golf vacation shouldn't just be about the golf course.  The pre- and post-round activities are an important ingredient to the total golf package.  Then there is the lodging.  When you are with a group of the guys, the place you stay almost seems irrelevant (especially if one of your buddies made the arrangements).  Just make sure there are enough beds for everyone, a good-sized living/dining room for watching television or playing cards, and a refrigerator large enough to hold a case or two of beer. (Yes, I know, I am engaging in stereotypes, but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.)
    When I travel alone or with family, I prefer a more genteel approach, the bed and breakfast accommodation.  Our readers in the UK and elsewhere will know these as "inns" in which the proprietors, typically a husband and wife, but not always, live in one corner of the house and rent out rooms to visitors. 

When is the last time Bill Marriott pulled up a chair next to you at one of his motels...

Unlike boarding houses of olden days, most B&Bs don't force you to share a bathroom with the folks down the hall.  Most rooms are "en suite," providing a private full bath for guests.
    B&Bs certainly don't have the marketing budgets of the big golfing resorts, but what they lack in notoriety they more than make up for in comfort and personal touches.  If you want peace and quiet at the end of the day, there is often no better choice.  Compared with chain motels, B&Bs are downright civilized.  You will never hear your neighbors yelling or playing the TV too loud - most B&Bs confine the TVs to the living room - and you always see the same proprietor in the morning that checked you in the night before.  There are no "staff" problems since the owners are almost always the staff.  Moreover, B&Bs, quaint though they are, are mindful that even the most refined travelers want modernhummbirdbedroomphoto.jpg conveniences.  The last two I have stayed in offered wireless internet connections throughout most of the house and scores of stations on the cable TV in the common room.
    And then there is the breakfast.  Talk about contrast, recently I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express one week (perfectly decent for a chain motel) and the Hummingbird Inn in Goshen, VA, the following week.  The highlight of the "free" Holiday Inn breakfast was the warmed up, previously frozen cinnamon buns.  The breakfasts Pam Matthews at the Hummingbird prepared for us and the other guests - she owns the place with husband Dick - included omelets, potatoes, fresh fruit, real slab bacon, sausages, and a homemade granola that was so good I begged for the recipe.  (Pam emailed it to me, I made it at home, and it was worth at least a night's fee for lodging).
    Another thing about B&Bs:  You actually talk with the people at breakfast or while relaxing in the evening in the den or living room.  That doesn't happen in a motel.  During a recent stay at another B&B, I worked on a jigsaw puzzle with a fellow guest, a nice bonding experience.  B&B owners are likely to join in the conversation, as Pam and Dick did toward the end of breakfast each morning.  When is the last time Bill Marriott pulled up a chair next to you at one of his motels to discuss the issues of the day or where to sightsee locally?
    The accommodations at a B&B are much more civilized too, offer some nice surprises and are worth the extra tariff compared with chain motels. If you don't arrive too late, the owners are happy to give you a tour of the house and grounds and point out the refrigerator with the free soft drinks (not all B&Bs offer that, but the Hummingbird does).  My wife and I stayed in the Franklin Room, which featured a canopied queen-sized bed, a fireplace we could light with the flip hummbirdfdrbabyphoto.jpgof a switch for a little extra heat, a rocking chair, nice chest of drawers, a bathroom with combo whirlpool and shower, and pictures of former President Franklin Roosevelt (thus the name of the room).  One was a framed cover of LIFE magazine circa 1949 showing a two-year old Roosevelt in a girl's dress. 

    I slept wonderfully in the firm queen bed in spite of the image of a former President in a dress, the too-soft pillows and the freight train that rumbled through the front yard during the night, about which my wife informed me in the morning.  That is another thing about B&Bs; they have their charming idiosyncrasies, and a working rail line not 10 yards from the front door was the Hummingbird's.
    Some B&Bs feel as if they are in the middle of no place, even when they aren't.  (I define "no place" as an hour from decent restaurants, shopping, and the like).  Goshen certainly feels that way, and with good reason.  The town lost its one and only restaurant last summer, and the single place in town to purchase any prepared food at all - a warmed-up pizza, really - is the local gas station.  When you leave the Hummingbird in the morning, don't come back until after dinnertime.  Except for some breathtaking Shenandoah Valley scenery down Route 39 along the Goshen Pass, the town has little magnetism.  
    I didn't play golf during my wife's and my three-night stay at the Hummingbird, but I could have.  Vista Links (Buena Vista) and Lexington Golf Club (Lexington), both previously reviewed here, and the renowned Cascades courses at The Homestead in West Virginia, are within 40 minutes.  If golf had been on my mind, I would have gladly traded the resort convenience of a walk or shuttle to the first tee for the soothing effect of The Hummingbird Inn.  Soothing is good for the soul, as well as the golf game.

The Hummingbird Inn is located at 30 Wood Lane, Goshen, VA, about 30 minutes from Lexington and 40 minutes from Hot Springs, WV.  Proprietors:  Pam & Dick Matthews.  Telephone:  800-397-3214.  Five rooms, all with private bath.  Rates:  $130 to $175 per night.  Web site: HummingbirdInn.com.  There are other B&Bs in the area, some within minutes of the aforementioned golf courses.  Check out InnVirginia.com for a list of them.

 

dsc_00752007-06-28vistalinks16.jpg

Vista Links in Buena Vista, VA, is one of a half dozen courses within 40 minutes of the Hummingbird.