Restaurant review: Lang's Seafood, St. Mary's, GA

    The houses in the historic district of St. Mary's, GA, are awash in pastel colors, but there is nothing fancy about the fish served at Lang's Marina Seafood Market Restaurant.  At dinner last night, I ordered the "Captain's Platter" and was rewarded with some of the freshest fish I've tasted in recent memory.  The huge platter, delivered grilled as requested, included rock shrimp and medium-sized shrimp, scallops, a generous piece of snapper and a half dozen nice-sized fried oysters (even though I ordered the platter grilled, we understand that's no way to treat an oyster).  The frying was expertly done.  At just under $18, the platter was a bargain. 
    Other items on the menu are fish house typical, and although all dishes are offered grilled or blackened, as well as fried, most scream out for breading.  This is the low country, after all.  A blackboard at the front counter included a list of fresh fish of the day, those not on the menu.  There was even an 8 ounce lobster tail for just $22 -- that's a half pound of lobster meat, almost -- which you could pair with a ribeye steak for just over $30.  I was disappointed our waitress said nothing about the alternative choices and, indeed, the service was the low point of the meal.  But she was cheery and returned to the table often to check on my status -- and, once, to attempt to take my half eaten plate of cole slaw.  No way I was going to give up the slaw, which was crisp and much enhanced by a modest amount of mayonnaise.  The hush puppies, by the way, the often leaden deep-fried dollops of corn meal, were as good as they get.
    The restaurant itself was clean, with nice views out to the inlet and the adjacent boat docks.  We were impressed that it wasn't overly nautical in its decor.  The food is definitely the focus at Lang's.  The waterfront park next door is a good place to walk after dinner; a few local coffee shops offer dessert options (we passed on dessert at Lang's, not wanting to tempt fate).
    The Lang family appears to own the waterfront in St. Mary's.  Not only does the name adorn the restaurant, but also the local marina and a seafood retail store.  The restaurant has no excuses for less than the freshest seafood possible, and it does not disappoint.
Address: 307 W. St. Marys St., near the waterfront park, St. Marys, GA.  Phone: 912-882-4432

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